72 Ossington Ave.

Rating: ****1/2
Dinner & drinks for two:

Ossington between Dundas and Queen streets has recently become tightly-packed with elite restaurants headed by some of the city’s top chefs.

Union is amongst the crowd, but it stands out, thanks to its good food and laid-back friendly vibe. A small open kitchen at the back allows you to watch the action and the décor is kitschy and cool.

We order drinks and apps as our warm, friendly server Lea intricately describes the specials — Chicken Confit, Grilled Splake, Beetroot Risotto and Stained Glass Sage Pappardelle — to name a few.

To start, moist, tender Elk Sliders ($13) nestle on Japanese mayo and challah toast points. The Housemade Charcuterie ($17), served on a wide slate, includes sheer pork cheek slices and chunky terrine.

The Sticky Ribs ($25) are meaty, sticky and fall off the bone. They’re served in a long dish straight from the oven, complete with caked-on charred bits, which give it a homey touch.

Mains come with a veg and a family-style serving of fries and smashed potatoes. Union could charge for this like other restaurants, but they don’t. I appreciate that.

Great food in a fun place with no ‘tude — I could get used to this.

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