1112 Edmonton Tr. N.E., Calgary
Signature Dish: Soft-shell crab club sandwich
Brunch & drinks for 2: $35
A lengthy brunch is always a great indulgence; an even better treat is a weekend breakfast/lunch with a twist on the ole bacon and eggs and no lineup outside.
Big Fish is a hidden treasure along the Breakfast Belt at the top of Edmonton Trail anchored by Diner Delux, and populated by AKA Bistro and the new Over Easy Breakfast.
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With the time leaning more toward lunch, we start with the seafood chowder ($8), a divine, creamy bowl with smoked halibut cheek and a few drizzles of yuzu oil.
The Eggs Benedict ($14) are solid, with a choice of flatiron steak, vegetables or Dungeness crab, rather than the usual suspects. The capable Hollandaise has a hint of basil; the potatoes are tossed with a hint of fresh herbs.
Omelettes are well thought-out and fluffy, with one featuring baby shrimp, locally cold-smoked trout and chives with gouda ($13).
My all-time favourite though is the enormous soft-shell crab club ($15). It is a thing of beauty: a whole battered soft-shell crab sandwiched with wild boar bacon, organic tomatoes and lettuce.
Those looking for something ahem, lighter, can still order eggs with double-smoked bacon or chicken sausage ($10).
Service is wonderful and the organic Kicking Horse coffee always topped up.