Great food, bland decor

The Studio Café, for example, is locked in the Dynasty era with thickcarpets, floral tablecloths and showcases filled with glass sculptures.

Four Seasons Studio Café
Four Seasons Hotel
Toronto — 2nd Floor
21 Avenue Rd.
416-928-7330
fourseasons.com/toronto


Rating: ****
Dinner for two with drinks: $100

The Four Seasons is in need of a makeover.

The Studio Café, for example, is locked in the Dynasty era with thick carpets, floral tablecloths and showcases filled with glass sculptures.

Ech.

But despite the outdated look, the food is exactly what you would expect from the Four Seasons — spectacular.

We take advantage of the three-course prix fixe dinner ($35/person, $49/person incl. two glasses of wine), which includes Chicken Liver Parfait, Grilled Quail and housemade ice creams.

I begin with Tuna Nicoise, a deconstructed salad of sliced seared tuna, crisp green beans, cherry tomatoes, black olives, teeny hard-boiled eggs finished with a swath of homemade mayonnaise. My companion’s Soup of the Day, Vichyssoise, is well-balanced and not too creamy. Both are fantastic hot weather selections.

The Broiled Mackerel with Warm Potato Salad and Scallion Pesto features the best mackerel I’ve ever had. And with two large pieces, you really get to savour it. Glazed Beef Cheek with Green Garlic Mash and Mushroom Jus is divine. The cheek is robust and tender, resulting in a hearty yet delicate meal.

The desserts are no less spectacular.

The food is incredible and the surroundings and service are not.

But oh, what a night.

 
 
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