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Happy 30th, Michael Kors (VIDEO)

Michael Kors celebrates three decades in the business with an opulent collection of luxurious furs and glittery evening wear. 

The reviews

1 Marc by Marc Jacobs
It was clear from the moment he sent out
his first look: a Studio 54-flavored satin blouse, metallic-leather
cardigan and flared herringbone trousers. Marc Jacobs’ secondary line
would continue the ’70s trend he started last season — even though he
moved his main collection on to more futuristic waters. The show had fun
and slightly flamboyant updates on classic looks from the disco decade.
A chunk of the collection had a nightlife sheen to it, even the pieces
that appeared to be for day (just in case a girl decides to hit the club
after work) such as a copper-metallic, leather wrap-skirt worn with a
mustard-colored bodysuit. Meanwhile his animal prints, which included
rows of elephants and running impalas, had that trademark whimsy that
Marc by Marc Jacobs fans have grown to expect and love. –Kenya Hunt

2 Sophie Theallet
There’s a certain confidence that comes when a
dress hugs exactly where it should or pants drape just so. French women
own it, and Theallet is bringing it stateside. With models wearing
berets, she showed demurely chic looks in warm tones (a navy
pencil-skirt worn with a sexy, rust-colored satin blouse, or a plunging
red gown) that were tailored to perfection. Even her boxy menwear
jackets and suits knew when to let up and curve. –Tina Chadha

3 Michael Kors





Michael Kors has built an empire on a very grown-up, “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous” kind of luxury, and his 30th anniversary show epitomized this. His collection seemed tailored for the Hollywood veterans in his front row including Michael Douglas, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Anjelica Huston and Bette Midler. His luxurious, full-length furs, glittery bodysuits and long, languid skirts oozed wealth. Even his color palette (slate gray, blush, mauve, black and winter white) seemed to convey power and glamour. So in that regard, the show had a back-to-the-archives feeling to it. It represented the best of his oeuvre. But there was also a strong ’90s undercurrent running through the clothes as well — only, the more monochromatic, tailored part of the decade. –KH

4 Hervé Léger




How many ways can one rework the bandage dress? Countless, apparently. Max Azria managed to give the famously sexy bandage dress a cool update by adding some edge, literally. Gold chain links and ivory studs were just a few of the metals embellishing the body sculpting mini and knee-length dresses he churned out. A version in houndstooth, an especially popular print this week, was a standout. –KH

5 Diesel Black Gold
Like last season, there wasn’t as much denim as there was leather in Sophia Kokosalaki’s fall collection for Diesel’s high-end label. With a wink to the 19th century, the women’s line consisted of a mix of edgy rocker and Victorian detailing: Fitted leather pants came laced-up at the sides, bustiers in leather were thrown over baroque printed dresses and jackets such as a chic, olive motorcycle version came with longer tails in the back. But the truly noble effort was the men’s line. Inspired by “soldiers who were also poets,” models wore relaxed denim and navy trousers tapered at the ankle and an array of polished-yet-cool coats and jackets. –TC

6 Tibi
Amy Smilovic showed an unexpected mini grunge revival, complete with baggy flannels, waffle tees and knit skullies in gray and olive — unexpected, because Tibi is known for girly, upbeat prints. But even the gritty urban reference had a sweet edge, thanks to hot-pink accents. Then the collection segued into feminine day dresses, trousers and cocktail frocks in the pretty prints for which Tibi is known. –KH

7 Yigal Azrouel




Yigal has developed a knack for reinterpreting the trends of the moment in ways that won’t make you look like a fashion victim. This collection ticked off a lot of the boxes on the season’s list of big ideas: glitter, gray, tailoring, leather and bow embellishments, for example. But he treated them all in thoughtful ways, such as how his tailored suiting, clean dresses and crisp coats came with flattering, cinched waists – or the way he managed to make the silk blouse unique with glittery detailing. –KH

8 J. Mendel
If you’re a fur-lover, meet your wish list. Gilles Mendel’s lush and luxe furs were the overt stars of this fall collection. His other main themes included menswear tailoring (for his outerwear and trousers) and tribal patterns (found on everything from jackets to gowns). Balancing out all the boxy shapes were his feminine, ethereal gowns with couture-like beading. –TC

 
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