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claudia kwan/for metro vancouver
819 Pacific (between Hornby and Howe)
Open daily from 11:30 am-10 pm, delivery available
Dinner for 2, including drinks, tax, and tip: $100
*** 1/2 (out of 5)
Infinity bills itself somewhat grandiloquently as a ‘dining experience,’ and as long as you know it’s supposed to feel like a casual dinner party with good food, it all makes sense.
I myself quite like the personality-laden and informal style of the sassy lass serving the entire room solo (not to mention the effortless way she deals with the boor at a neighbouring table) but it might puzzle someone else expecting fine dining based on the tone of the menu.
The portion sizes and prices are in the middle range between fine, casual fine, and casual dining, so no help there. We’re here to take advantage of a promo offer valid for all of June, where a three-course meal will only set you back $20. Guided by a clever hint from our server, we just manage to squeak our order in before a table of 10 rushes the kitchen.
Some fabulous cranberry and rosemary tartare on potato focaccia bread tides us over until the food arrives; additional orders are $1.50 per. First up is a Caesar salad that gets top marks from B for being dressed perfectly, and a butternut squash fondue that is SPICY. It’s good, but the cayenne pepper isn’t mentioned in the menu description.
Next up is a yummy but somewhat small portion of mushroom ravioli in a roasted garlic cream sauce, and what’s billed as grilled wild B.C. salmon under jasmine ginger soy sauce. The fish is slightly overcooked and very bland, despite the nice blend of flavours in the sauce — I would happily pay an extra few dollars for a better quality piece of fish to see this dish reach its full potential. We’ve also tacked on a barbecue sirloin steak which is perfectly done.
Caramelized pear tart with a half-melted Stilton cheese fondant is delicious, with excellent pastry, and sweet cornbread drizzled with caramel is surprisingly good. The lounge-y interior and wide-ranging ages and styles of the customers on this night again provide no exact identity clues.
In the end, Infinity appears to be what you want it to be.