seth wenig/associated press


Designer Marc Jacobs takes a turn at the end of his fall/winter 2007 show.


This is what the crowd at New York Fashion Week was waiting for: A definitive sign that the shape of fashion for fall/winter 2007 will be different.

More than any other American designer, Marc Jacobs is the bellwether, and he treated his beyond-capacity crowd to long, lean clothes that were devoid of gimmicks but still had sparkle, thanks to several sequined pieces.

seth wenig/associated press

Leaner silhouettes were in play at Marc Jacobs’ fall/winter 2007 show.

Models, including Shalom Harlow making a rare appearance on the runway, wore 1920s-inspired hats to complement pleated shirtdresses that went below the knee and menswear-style vests and narrow-leg — though not “skinny” — pants. There was more than one jumpsuit, and while jumpsuits normally either look dated or are incredibly difficult to pull off, Jacobs’ navy one covered with subtle embroidered bows actually worked. (The jury is still out on the decision to put stirrups on the bottoms of most pants.)

Eveningwear was either tailored tuxedos, or dropped-waist or draped dresses; a teal strapless velvet gown with an oversized bow at the bustline was his finale piece.

Jacobs did tap into some already-emerging trends, including using teal and berry against an overall palette of grey, navy, beige and winter white, as well as mixing textures, almost ensuring that those looks will take off. On the internet: