Sublime patchwork, glam bohemian and Madonna-meets-Janis-Joplin were the highlights of Day 5 at New York Fashion Week.
Rodarte
In a departure from their trademark cobwebby knits, Laura and Kate Mulleavy showed sublime, Edward Scissorhands-style mini dresses made of layered and patchworked wool, tulle, silver lamé, sequins, leather, you name it. They paired the dresses with the fiercest, bandaged and studded thigh high boots. It all made for a goosebump-inducing show. “I want them in every colour,” Nicola Vassell, a director at the gallery Deitch Projects, said of the footwear British shoe dynamo Nicholas Kirkwood made for the collection. Judging from the talk among guests after the show, she’s not the only one. —Kenya Hunt
Matthew Williamson
Glam sophistication seems to be the theme of the week, with even Matthew Williamson giving his bohemian muse a more polished, “dressed up” makeover. He did this through chic voluminous coats, sleek dresses and a surprising amount of furs that cooed, “what recession?” —Kenya Hunt
Toni Maticevski
With Solange Knowles seated front row, Toni Maticevski has become a favourite in the music world. His fall collection was more edgy society girl (see Poppy Delevingne who was also there) than music video queen with slim, knee-grazing dresses embellished with sequins, fur and feathers. –Kenya Hunt
Jill Stuart
Oversized velvet fedoras with hippie flowers and billowing chiffon pirate sleeves said it all. Babydoll minidresses with ruffles and frills met rock ‘n’ roller skin-tight leather pants and see-through lace tops; rosaries and chains finished off the early-Madonna/Janis Joplin look. —Maisie Wilhelm
Trends to watch out for
1. Fur
2. Feathers
3. Office/job interview appropriate wear
4. Bold shoulders
5. Stovepipe trousers
—Kenya Hunt and Tina Chadha
