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Opulence meets streetwear: With video

Everyday favorites like lumberjack plaids hit the runway in pieces boasting elaborate construction.

The reviews

1 Thakoon
After years of showing his collection in a cold gallery space, Thakoon moved his show to the sprawling, opulent ballroom at The Plaza Hotel. Compared to the other global Fashion Weeks, New York shows have a tendency to be too sparse; it's nice when a designer makes an effort to create a real experience. Now about the clothes: They were beautifully constructed and made of contrasting elements that somehow made sense. Bold African prints mixed with lumberjack plaids and tweeds on asymmetrical coats, bustled skirts and elaborately draped dresses. It all made for one of the most creative shows we’ve seen this week so far. –Kenya Hunt

Ohne Titel
Gray is turning out to be the color of the season, having popped up all over Fashion Week’s runways. Twelve of Flora Gill and Alexa Adams’ mostly monochromatic, sporty looks were in the neutral color. The collection was dominated by sculptural shaped tops, flouncy skirts and lean trousers. And the dress-over-pants trend surfaced here — but in Gill and Adams’ hands it looked smart and effortlessly cool. –KH

2 Catherine Malandrino





Malandrino’s girl oozed femininity with an urban toughness. Beautifully draped full-length and mini dresses with oh-so-handy pockets came in jewel tones such as emerald and grape. Fur — plenty of it — lined fitted coats cinched at the waist with leather belts; cropped jackets and vests. And then there were the polished separates in funky houndstooth and striped patterns for, alas, when the 9-to-5 calls. –Tina Chadha

3 Y-3
It's not always clear who the Y-3 audience is. Fashion-lovers? Sports-lovers? Both? This season’s collection had the usual dark, athletic-looking fare (sweatshorts, cargo pants and slouchy shirtdresses). But there were some literal and figurative bright moments too, such as a series of voluminous, beautifully gathered red plaid skirts that looked timelessly eccentric and cool. –KH

4 Max Azria
Mannish tailoring in earth tones like ash brown and charcoal gray dominated this collection of office-perfect tweed coats, printed silk dresses and cigarette trousers. These were clothes for the working woman who doesn’t necessarily want to sacrifice her sense of personal style at the altar of the office dress code. And for those off-duty hours: creamy, caramel-colored leather pants and slouchy jumpsuits. –KH

5 DKNY




If you’re curious to know what the big trends will be for fall, have a look at DKNY’s mod-themed collection, which featured smart interpretations of most of them — including long flared trousers, soft quilted jackets and precisely tailored coats and separates. The color palette — lots of charcoal gray, navy and black interspersed with bright lipstick red and blush — was also right in step with the moment. –KH

6 Cushnie et Ochs
Exaggerated leather fringe on mostly black separates and goat hair affixed on the back shoulders of jackets and peeking through the bottom of well-tailored skirts and dresses were the focus of Cushnie et Ochs collection. Other highlights: an olive biker jacket and structured cocktail dresses. Our favorites were the pieces featuring sexy, dark cut-outs made from elastic boning. –TC

Trending

Lumberjack plaids: Derek Lam, Thakoon, Y-3
Mixed and matched prints: Suno, Thakoon, Duro Olowu
Shades of gray: Alexander Wang, Jason Wu, Max Azria

 
 
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