Top fashion designers launch nefragrances
Coach, and CK, IN2U by Calvin Klein
You'll hear a lot of fashion insiders talk about exclusivity and niche audiences, but not Coach's Reed Krakoff. In launching Coach's nefragrance the brand's first Krakoff wanted to make something that could be all things to all people: Worn on weekends, but also evenings; bright but romantic; aspirational yet approachable.
We wanted it to be accessible and very multifaceted, the way Coach is, Krakoff said recently. We talked about a fragrance for a long time, eight or nine years, but we wanted it to be believable in our stores, not just a successful brand putting out a fragrance. We're noa lifestyle brand with eyewear and jewelry we felt like it belonged.
The final product is one with top notes of tart green mandarin, guava, violet petals and giant water lily a Brazilian flower that blooms for one month each year; a middle of honey, orange flower, mimosa and jasmine; and a base of sandalwood, amber wood and vanilla.
The mix of exotic and classic perfume scents fits in with the image that Krakoff has cultivated for Coach in his 10 years as executive creative director. He has taken the company known for its functional-yet-polished leather goods and added more spice, especially in expanding the colour range and using trendier hardware.
At the heart of it all, though, Coach has a classic, American approach, Krakoff said, one that is rooted in function. Everything works. There's not a lot of decoration on anything. ... European design is much more about ceremony. You think of Marie Antoinette.
It should come as no surprise then that the bottle for the Coach fragrance is straightforward: It's a rectangular-shaped bottle with clean lines and a subtle version of Coach's C logo. But there is one of the brand's dog-tags hanging from the neck.
It's a traditional bottle with a contemporary ornament, said Krakoff.
The Coach fragrance isn't the only nescent in bloom, others include:
Ralph Rocks by Ralph Lauren, and Miss Boucheron, below.
Ralph Rocks by Ralph Lauren. Packaged in a bright orange bottle, it smells of citrus floral cream, including the scents of passion fruit, kiwi and orange blossom according to the company.
Tommy Girl Summer by Tommy Hilfiger. A seaside update to the original Tommy Girl, marking its 10th year, featuring familiar NeEngland beach scents such as Nantucket cranberries, beach roses and cedar.
Les Exclusifs de Chanel. A collection of 10 fragrances, some neby perfumer Jacques Polge and some a re-interpretation of classics developed by Coco Chanel and the company's first fragrance developer Ernest Beaux. The classics include No. 22, a mix of white powder and blossoming tuberose. The neperfumes are an Eau de Cologne, with citrus and neroli; 31 Rue Cambon, rooted in the florals of Cyprus; No. 18, inspired by the radiance of a diamond; Coromandel, an Oriental with amber; Bel Respiro, which aims to capture the smells of Coco Chanel's first country home with grass and crushed leaves; and 28 La Pausa, exploring the facets of the iris flower.
Versace by Donatella Versace. Scents include wisteria and cedar.
Givenchy's Harvest Collection. The collection features three perfumes, each based on a bouquet of scents found in a particular place. Rose Centifolia from Grasse, France, captures a rose with at least 100 petals; Amarige Ylang Ylang from the French island of Mayotte is rooted in ylang ylang but also has notes of mandarin leaf, gardenia, sandalwood and vanilla. Organza Fleur d'Oranger is inspired by sunny Nabeul, Tunisia, with notes of honeysuckle, neroli, gardenia, peony and nutmeg.
CK IN2U by Calvin Klein. It's the first CK fragrance just for women. (There is a male version of IN2U, too.) The top includes grapefruit and red currant leaves, with vanilla in the base.
Miss Boucheron. Boucheron is known best for its jewelry and this fragrance comes in a pink and green jewel-like bottle inspired by a pendant. The top includes bergamot and pink peppercorn.
Touch of Spring by Lacoste. A green scent in a green bottle, with quince flower; Amazon water lily, osmanthus, sandalwood and musk.
L by Lolita Lempicka. This adds spice to sweet, with bitter orange, cinnamon and vanilla.