Columnist snorkels with whale shark off Mozambique
Off the coast of Tofo beach in Mozambique, snorkellers visit a whale shark.
With its colonial architecture, Mediterranean-meets-African culture and world-class diving, Mozambique is very cool.
Tofo beach, a popular backpacker hangout located a few hours north of the capital, Maputo, sounded like the place to be: sandy white beaches, tall coconut palms and great snorkelling.
After a long drive, I checked into Bamboozi Backpackers, a compound of thatched huts by the beach. By far the best budget accommodation in the area, it offers camping, dorms, fully equipped A-frame chalets, and a rustic but romantic honeymoon suite overlooking the Indian Ocean.
In addition to great food, a chill vibe and a sociable atmosphere, Bamboozi has an on-site dive centre offering PADI open water certifications. They also offer “ocean safaris,” a two-hour snorkelling trip with manta rays, whale sharks and dolphins.
I joined a group of fellow snorkellers, hopped in a speedboat and scanned the blue waters for marine life.
Ian, a Canadian-born dive instructor, pointed to a brown blob beneath the surface. “It’s a whale shark … get flippers and masks ready,” he commanded.
The speedboat stopped and we all slipped into the ocean. The monstrous polka-dot fish was easy to spot as he approached with a wide open mouth.
The whale shark is the world’s largest living fish. Despite his threatening size, this guy eats plankton, not humans. A fellow diver plunged below the surface to get a better look at the speckled gentle giant. The beast looked pre-historic, a monster compared to the tiny human treading water beside him.
I surfaced to catch my breath, clumsily removing my mask. The scene was just horizon and open water. Da na … Da na … the Jaws soundtrack crept in involuntarily. I knew it was silly — there weren’t Great Whites in these waters, but imagination is a powerful thing.
As I swam quickly toward the boat, I looked to find little clumps of transparent-bluish goo wrapped around my left arm. I’d been stung by blue-bottle jellyfish — it’s unpleasant, not deadly. In the boat, some white vinegar neutralized the sting within minutes.
The movie soundtrack in my head had stopped playing and I was ready for more snorkel time.
Julia Dimon is editor of The Travel Junkie, an online magazine for independent travellers. She can be reached at www.thetraveljunkie.ca.
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