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Sigma redefines Grecian formula for downtown

A month ago, Cosmos on Rice Howard Way reopened its doors as chic Sigma.

Sigma
10020 101A Ave
780-990-1043

Rating: ****
Price range: Mid
Reservations: No
Signature Dish: Moussaka ($14.50)

A month ago, Cosmos on Rice Howard Way reopened its doors as chic Sigma. Cheerful Mediterranean frescoes were replaced with dark, elegant hardwoods and the Greek menu expanded to include pasta, burgers and steak.

The resulting bistro only charges mid-range prices and still boasts one of the best downtown patios.

I paired my moussaka ($14.50) with coffee ($2.50) and the essential baklava ($5.50). The accompanying Greek salad was abundant and only lightly oiled, while the sweet density of my eggplant casserole was simply delicious. My coffee never dropped below half a cup, and the baklava —enhanced as it was with a pinch of cinnamon — was crisp, sweet and sublime.

Sigma is the right restaurant in the right place. Their solid Greek cuisine is priced lower than most in the downtown core, and renovation brought the bistro into the current decade. Savour a retsina and some appetizers, or spiked coffee and baklava, and watch the world pass by.