Continental Seafood
#150-11700 Cambie Rd.
Richmond
604-278-6331
Signature Drink: Tea, of course
Signature Dish: Deep-fried Squid
Rating: ***
Lunch & drinks for two: $40
With all the hype over the Canada Line, restaurants on the west side of Richmond have seen a sharp increase in diners from Vancouver. The east side of Richmond, however, is not bereft of likely haunts, which can often be found in the most unlikely places.
Take Continental Seafood. Located in a large strip mall at the corner of Cambie and No. 5 Roads, the unassuming storefront and bland interior are almost indistinguishable from hundreds of other such establishments throughout Richmond. Its attraction lies solely with the food, specifically, the dim sum luncheon. You can come here for dinner—the Peking Duck ($40) is killer—and work off the calories at the same time with the nightly karaoke and ballroom dancing, but my money is still on the day menu.
The old-fashioned pushcart service makes menus rather unnecessary—in fact, I didn’t see one until my third visit. The prices are pretty typical for dim sum in Richmond, ranging from $3 to $5.75 depending on the size and whether it’s a “deluxe” item. Three of us could feast like kings and walk away paying $20 each, or on more sparing days, a moderately-filling meal saw us each drop $10 and change. It’s wise to come early, before noon on weekdays, as this place fills up fast with local residents and workers from the surrounding industrial parks.
The service is lightning fast and efficient, empty bowls and dishes were removed promptly, and water glasses and tea pots were constantly being refilled, without us having to ask even once. There is no attempt to up-sell here—if you want something, fine, and if not…whatever.
Over the course of four visits, the group favourite was hands-down the deep-fried squid. Chinese cuisine tends to avoid tentacles, and these are beautifully thick, juicy bars, loosely tossed in coarse salt while hot, and sprinkled with the lightest amount of chili flakes. Pork dumplings were just okay, but the same balls with scallops on top were excellent. Shrimp rice rolls were also delicious—if a little drowned by the sauce. It is poured at the table, however, so if you’re quick, you can tell them to go easy on the soy. Crab claw balls were another group favourite—large, puffy, deep-fried spheres were speared with a small claw, and served with chili oil for dipping.
Desserts weren’t exceptional to my taste, but standbys like mango pudding and red bean cake seemed popular among our fellow diners, as well as a green-and-white pudding that I never got around to trying.
The food here is not the stuff of culinary legend, but for a solid, comforting dim sum lunch—at a reasonable price—it’s really quite nice.
Inniskillin’s New Releases
Just in time for the holidays, Inniskillin has released several new offerings from their small-lot Reserve and Discovery series. Winemaker Sandor Mayer seems to delight in experimenting with new grapes, and one of his most successful attempts is with Tempranillo, a black grape of Spanish origin. Mayer has created two versions from the 2007 vintage, a straight, medium-bodied red with notes of spicy oak and dark cherry ($29.99), and an ice wine version that boasts fresh apple, cherry and raspberry aromas ($99.99). Both available directly from the winery. inniskillin.com
Top Shelf
Bacio for a Cure
On Jan. 31, 2010, Mangia e Bevi Ristorante (2222 Marine Dr, W. Van) will be holding their third annual BACIO (Because a Cure is Obtainable) event in support of Lion’s Gate Oncology Clinic and B.C. Children’s Hospital Oncology Research. Tickets $95. www.mangiaebevi.ca
Dining Out
Gifts for Foodies
The Holy Trinity of Cookbooks? Perhaps, if you’re a fan of West, Blue Water Café and Araxi restaurants. (And if you’re not, you should be.) The three new releases are all available as a wrapped, inscribed set for $125. Order online at www.toptable.ca or at any of the restaurants.
Vista D’oro Farms & Winery is offering a special holiday package of their 2007 D’oro, a fortified, port-style wine, along with your choice of three of their artisanal preserves, for $90. Favourites are the Turkish Fig with Walnut Wine, Spiced Cranberry with Ice Wine, and Green Walnut with Grappa. Call 604-514-3539 or visit www.vistadoro.com.
Food in Brief
Refuel, the new incarnation of the late Fuel Restaurant at 1944 West 4 Ave, is now open and serving lunch and dinner daily.
Chef Wayne Martin, of Fraîche and Crave restaurants, has launched Heirloom Catering just in time for the holidays, with Chef Andrew Sward at the helm.
