12202 Jasper Ave.

Rating: 11121/2
Dinner & drinks for two: $90
Signature Dish: Silver Platter ($58)
Signature Drink: Gougenheim Syrah ($9)

When it first opened, reviewers raved about this plucky, five-table organic Sort Of Bistro east of downtown. When it reopened on Jasper, it was nearly the second coming.

The fare is fresh, funky and fabulous. Unfortunately, single-dish shared entrees bug me.

We skipped the apps and selected. I paired the daily vegetable ($14) with polenta ($18) and chorizo ($19). Our friendly server suggested another meat dish, but we declined to risk both budget and dessert.

I rounded out our choices with a glass of sharp, spicy and acidic Hillside Pinotage ($13).

We snacked on bread, then savoured the dishes that arrived. While not abundant, the grilled asparagus with honey and lemon was delicious, as was the tomato and chorizo dish, which was finished with red wine and a peck of cilantro. The soft, doughy polenta was my favourite, salsa-ed and served on top of coconut basmati rice. Hot fruit crisp ($10) was a pleasant end to the meal.

I wanted to love this place. However, when I pay Cowgirls’ prices, I want a meal created by an expert. I don’t want to trust my whimsical tastes to balance the unknowable flavours of three random dishes.

Latest From ...