Lily 86
786 Broadview Avenue
Toronto
416-465-9991

Rating: ****
Dinner & drinks for 2: $70

At Lily 86, you’ll find the usual suspects — California Roll, Chicken Fried Udon and Teriyakis — but there is so much more to discover here. Take the Whole Grilled Cuttlefish, Tempura Onion Rolls and items that the servers only know how to describe in Japanese.

Or the unique touches of the hot towel that follows your arrival, crispy Spring Rolls that are filled with soft, silky bamboo, creamy ginger ice cream with chunks of fresh hot ginger and the sublime Takara Plum Wine.

The presentation of everything here is elegant without being fussy, which goes well with the art deco décor.

The set dinners are likely much pricier than your usual neighbourhood joint, but that’s because this right here is the good stuff. Each set dinner includes soup, salad, maki sushi and dessert. The Sashimi Set (8 pcs) ($26) arrives with an arrangement of fresh raw fish — salmon, tuna, Japanese tuna and butterfish — that boasts an array of colours, delicate textures and roaring ocean flavours.

That said, the service can be very trying. The waitstaff speak mostly Japanese and when it’s busy, the wait for anything can be long.

However, it ends up being worth the wait.