New York Fashion Week struts to a high-fashion halt today, but the impact of these five fab shows is bound to last way beyond the end of the catwalk.
How many ways can one rework the bandage dress? Countless, apparently. Max Azria managed to give the famously sexy bandage dress a cool update by adding some edge, literally. Gold chain links and ivory studs were just a few of the medals embellishing the body sculpting mini and knee-length dresses he churned out. A version in houndstooth, which has been an especially popular print this week, was a standout in the show.
The slightly bohemian collection was softer and quieter than the gold glamazons they created last season, but it was similar in that layering played a big part. Models paraded in front of a front row that included Kanye West and Sofia Coppola in long wool, cinched waist swing coats worn over slightly longer, floaty dresses. When it was all said and done, the collection left no question of the sisters' maturing craftsmanship.
The always directional Marc Jacobs took a stiff right turn away from the easy, floaty course he'd taken last season. His new collection was about more constructed looks in futuristic silhouettes with loads of circle-shaped sequins, paillettes and latex appliqués. That means you can pretty much guarantee that the season's trend for shiny, shimmery looks will be fairly huge next fall. It’s also worth noting that his dress and high waisted skirt lengths were higher (knee-length) compared to last season’s.
After years of showing his collection in a cold, gallery space, Thakoon moved his show to the sprawling, opulent ballroom at The Plaza hotel. The clothes were beautifully constructed and made of contrasting elements that somehow made sense. Bold African prints mixed with lumberjack plaids and tweeds on asymmetrical coats, bustled skirts and elaborately draped dresses. It all made for one of the most creative shows we've seen this week so far.
If you're curious to know what the big trends will be for fall, have a look at DKNY's mod-themed collection, which featured smart interpretations of most of them including long flared trousers, soft quilted jackets and precisely tailored coats and separates, to name a few. The colour palette, which had lots of charcoal gray, navy and black interspersed with bright lipstick red and blush, was also right in step with the moment.