3479 Yonge St.
Rating: *** 1/2
Dinner & drinks for 2: $70
It’s Friday night and Trapper’s is only half full.
Its 24 years old. That’s the hardship of older restaurants — trying to remain relevant and remembered.
But as much as Torontonians want new and noisy, I am grateful for the quiet.
And although the décor is stuck in the ’80s (an arbor with fake leaves, muted colours), the dining room is open and pleasant — high ceilings and glimpses of both the bar and the action in the kitchen.
The Escargot Appetizer Special ($12.95) is sublime and the Hickory Smoked Atlantic Salmon ($13) is emboldened by the smoked trout, avocado and wasabi mousse.
My companion isn't a fish lover but is vastly swayed by the preparation of the Pan Seared Muskoka Trout ($19). I have the Seafood Supreme ($23) with lovely plump fish, clams, mussels, squid, shrimp and slightly overcooked scallops in a delicate saffron broth — a good choice.
The two servers tonight (one of which has been here since the beginning and used to run the kitchen) are at times pushy and rushed, but not entirely unpleasant.
When I think back on this dinner, I will definitely have fond memories.
And isn’t that a mark of a good restaurant?
Beneath The Sultan’s Tent & Café Moroc on Front St. lies the new Berber Resto-Bar-Lounge, opening Saturday after 5 p.m. This tapas-style lounge is filled with furniture and accessories direct from Morocco and will be open Thursdays-Saturdays until 2 a.m. Info at www.berberlounge.ca
The Bier Market (which has two locations in the GTA) celebrates its annual Wild Game Feastivül now through Dec. 6. Get your game on with Pheasant Soup, Alberta Bison Carpaccio and Nunavit Caribou Osso Bucco. Check out the menu at www.thebiermarkt.com
Trapper’s one for the memories