Trend 1: Military
It’s a men’s fashion paradigm that’s been re-worked on countless occasions, and this season was no different. Versace went for camouflage but not the type designed to make you blend in with your surroundings — unless of course you’re on an acid trip in a rainbow world. Conversely, Jil Sander’s designer Raf Simons found himself in a dark place with a collection worthy of the Gestapo, with long leather trench coats and black suits — a comment on oppression, perhaps.
Trend 2: Period dress
Prada went down the literary trope of appearance and reality in a show entitled “Il Palazzo. A Palace of Role Play” with actors Gary Oldman, Adrien Brody and Jamie Bell all taking to the runway in high double-breasted suits and white collars reminiscent of Fin-de-Siecle chic — they should have topped it off with a cape from Dolce & Gabbana. Alexander McQueen went down a similarly archaic route with pinstripe suits, breeches and Prince of Wales checks.
Trend 3: Tailoring
Milan’s renowned for its suiting and — surprise, surprise — this season was no exception. While most designers were looking to the past, Paul Smith looked seaside. Dark, skinny pieces
were dotted with neon, nautical motifs. But while Smith toyed with pops of color, Hermes returned to sobriety with slim, muted tailoring. Meanwhile, the tailoring at Burberry Prorsum arrived slim-cut (noticing a trend?) in shades of gray and later corduroy with military-meets-country wear.