Wood-fired ovens turn out a huge variety of pizzas, from Neapolitan to Roman, with crusts that rangy from soft and chewy to nearly cracker-crispy. We've rounded up some of the city’s most notable wood-forged pies.

Emily

Owners Matthew and Emily Hyland began their romance over pizza. At their year-old, homey restaurant, ricotta and mozzarella cheeses are handmade and served on pizzas with a generous, bubbly crust that’s lightly charred. Go for the savory-sweet Colony, with pepperoni, pickled chili and honey. End your meal with a s’mores calzone and you’ll wonder if graham crackers will ever hold the same appeal. 919 Fulton St., Clinton Hill

Marta

Shake Shack CEO Danny Meyer accomplished a rare feat: getting this pizza-saturated city excited about it again when he dreamed of a high-end Roman-style pie. The crust is thin even by New York standards, but it holds together under the weight of the meat lovers’ Macellaio and the dense, starchy flavor bomb that is the Patate Alla Carbonara. 29 E. 29th St.

Rossopomodoro

Eataly’s pizza joint just opened as a standalone restaurant in the West Village in December. Out of the gold-tiled oven come pizzas where the dough is almost a mere delivery service for the lovely hunks of cheese and bursting fresh cherry tomatoes. Brussels sprouts and winter squash make unexpected appearances that leave you questioning if there’s anything that can’t be improved in pizza form. 118 Greenwich Ave. 

Sotto 13

The sky lit brunch nook turns into a classy throwback restaurant at night, with great, happy-hour specials. The crust here takes a different tack, going for a more spongy, bread-like texture that’s baked at 800 degrees just until it blisters. New to the menu is a duck salami pizza with fig jam, pear and gorgonzola, but the spicy fennel sausage pie is what keeps people coming back. 140 W. 13th St.

Roberta’s

The perfect classic margherita pie, a tiki bar to make your hour-plus wait painless and a craft beer list. Believe the hype. The offbeat pies are personal size, so make sure your date is worthy of sharing, and the menu changes often, driven by local ingredients, some grown on-site. The space is communal seating, loud and scene-y, so prep your beards and bohemian dresses accordingly, but you won’t leave disappointed. 261 Moore St., Bushwick