Inspired by the sexy 1960s drama “La Piscine,” Tory Burch whisked showgoers away to a vacation in the French Riviera. In her suitcase: relaxed shifts, silk maxi skirts, bikinis with ruffled bottoms and ankle-length jeans, all decorated with garden prints in Mediterranean sea blue, leafy green and crisp white. Though Burch specifically cites Romy Schneider’s sophisticated character in her show notes, there were strong references to Jane Birkin's Lolita-like Penelope, too: simple dresses with schoolgirl collars, crochet tops and sweet wicker baskets for trips to the market. Standouts included the flats with bright green flower appliques and an orange floor sweeper in tulle. — Tina Chadha
It’s the dawn of a new day at Diesel Black Gold. Nicola Formichetti was recently named artistic director for the denim giant and there’s a heightened sense of excitement in the air. Though there’s no Lady Gaga in the audience (but Kanye West is here!), designer Andreas Melbostad’s second collection for the brand starts off with a bang: Pants with gypsy-like metal disks and tough grommet hardware pair with wispy silk blouses unbuttoned at the navel. The part edgy, part elegant theme continues throughout the collection with pale, cotton eyelet dresses worn under a tough leather vest. Distressed, low-slung boyfriend jeans (the show’s most memorable item) and shrunken leather motos get a soft makeover in shades of baby blue and pale pink. The end result is perfectly in the zeitgeist: women who want to be everything — feminine and cool — all at once. And if sexy is what you’re after, Melbostad revved up leather pants with oh-la-la open crisscross stitching going down the sides. — TC
The Diesel show is done and I have 15 minutes to get across town to 11th Avenue for Wes Anderson. Since I’m in Grand Central I decide to hop the train and it works! Take that, crosstown traffic!
Like Diesel, there’s an immediate theme established at Wes Gordon’s first runway show: a juxtaposition of heavy and airy fabrics. Silk slips with lace inserts are paired with wooly sweaters and mannish shirts. The plays on contrast continue with a dreamy white chiffon and tulle gown with a boyfriend blazer, and an armor-like metallic lattice crop top with a cotton pencil skirt. Even though Gordon is probably trying to loosen up his uptown clientele, the negligee-as-daywear effect keeps reminding me of Louis Vuitton’s Fall 2013 show. But the originality of this collection won’t really matter. Gordon cuts his garments to hug a women’s curves just so, as seen in his series of elegant gowns. That, and his sensual color palette will see that this collection of really pretty clothes will fly off the rack. — TC
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