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The west side's new Gansevoort Market is pretty – and tasty

  • 1 of 8

    Gansevoort Market is between Greenwich and Washington streets on the west side.

  • 2 of 8

    Thomas Perone is The Pig Guy.

    |Eva Kis

  • 3 of 8

    Eat tapas at Donostia's gorgeous counter.

    |Eva Kis

  • 4 of 8

    Dana's Bakery is first to the brick-and-mortar game.

    |Eva Kis

  • 5 of 8

    Ernie Cappone of Cappone's Salumeria knows his sandwiches.

    |Eva Kis

  • 6 of 8

    Get a bouquet of kale at Flower Girl.

    |Eva Kis

  • 7 of 8

    Tacombi parked the bus that started it all at the market.

    |Eva Kis

  • 8 of 8

    Brooklyn's Champion Coffee is now available in Manhattan.

    |Eva Kis

If you’re stuck for what to eat at lunch, Gansevoort Market won’t make the choice easy. The Meatpacking District warehouse between Greenwich and Washington streets is the latest spot to experience the city’s hottest way to serve food right now: in a hall. There used to be an indoor market in the same spot during the mid-1800s — several identities later, it’s back toserving up fresh fare (albeit mostly the grab-and-go kind).

The concept is working for Heermance Farm, which has its upstate produce on display and fresh eggs and cheese available in a small refrigerator, but its biggest sellers are jar salads and bite-size cookies. Three daily soups also rotate; get there early for the gumbo, which was gone by 1 p.m. when we visited, a blustery Thursday that couldn’t keep away a chatty mix of SoHo hipsters, tourists on their way to the High Line and freelancers sitting beneath the skylight that spans the rear eating area, surrounded by pillars wound with vines harvested in Long Island. The effect is enchanting, shifting the mood of the space from industrial chic to a nymph’s Pinterest.

But you shoudl opt to sit and dine when the restaurants — which pack as much atmosphere into their compact stands as any other standalone joint — offer their own seating. Donostia’s seafood tapas is best served at the gorgeously surfaced counter, while the purist spirit of David Bouhadana’s Sushi Dojo — no California rolls, just excellently simple sushi and sashimi — extends to its traditional bar.

Gansevoort Market is open 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. at 52 Gansevoort St. Upcoming tenants include , which will serve pasta dishes and sell pasta to make at home; , a Thai restaurant, and butcher shop.

At Cappone’s Salumeria, the bread comes from Queens but pretty much everything is Italian (including Tomarchio flavored sodas). “We don’t use mayonnaise, no mustard; I use extra virgin olive oil and a cream of balsamic,” proprietor Ernie Cappone says, with the kind of fuhget-about-it accent that doesn’t brook argument about his food.

Sip a fresh-pressed juice and spend a few minutes chatting up veggie-focused Feelfood owner Fernando Aciar, and you won’t be able to help absorbing his earnest attitude about eating well. He’s not against meat or alcohol (in fact, he’s busy mixing up the next cocktail trend: boozy green juices) — the enemy is sugar, not taste.

If you’re just passing through on your way back to your desk, the oh-so-pillowy brioche-muffin hybrids of The Bruffin will get you through the day, or grab some brisket smoked for seven hours from The Pig Guy. Feeling generous (or just very hungry)? The meats come in tray size, too, and can be delivered.

All of the dessert spots are first-timers to the brick-and-mortar scene. Yiaourti’s dense Greek yogurt made with sheep’s and goat’s milk is strained onsite — try it with the imported sour cherry compote. Or get a taste of Fabien Desgroux’s Parisian childhood with a traditional Crepe Sucre, dusted with one of six infused sugars.

On your way out, grab a tin of tea pretty enough to display from Lov Organics, an offbeat bouquet from Flower Girl and a bottle of Williamsburg-made superfood TigerNut Horchata (go for the chai).

 

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