Timeless classics, covered up femininity and layers upon layers were key moments on Day 6 at New York Fashion Week.
Narciso Rodriguez
A handful of looks, including a crisply cut, wheat-coloured coat with criss-cross detailing and a sleeveless, collared black belted dress, seemed to have Michelle Obama’s name all over it. Others, such as a loud black and white camouflage series, made an unexpected contrast to his trademark, understated minimalism. —Kenya Hunt
Diesel Black Gold
Easy, relaxed-fitting jumpsuits, trousers and dresses had a dark, urban edge (literally, the dominant colours were black and grey) for a night out hopping from one velvet rope to another. More colourful versions of the same silhouette seemed tailored for brunch the day afterward. —Kenya Hunt
Sophie Theallet
With all of the glam sophisticates who have been populating the runways, the bohemian was nearly forgotten about. But she’ll find plenty to like in Sophie Theallet’s Native American inspired dresses, which were mostly long sleeve, knee-length numbers — some belted at the waist, in chocolate brown, rust, and burgundy. —Kenya Hunt
Max Azria
Azria gives the goth (a popular idea last fall) a feminine update. With the exception of a few moments of transparency on bandage dresses and lace skirts, the looks were covered up from head to toe with turtlenecks, ankle-grazing skirts, leggings and long leather gloves. Some were cool and urbane, others just seemed a bit too dark for the climate. —Kenya Hunt
Gerlan Jeans
Gerlan’s wild and fun, club kid-style work looked completely at home in the Patricia Field store where she showed her fall collection. Her poppy graphics come courtesy of her background as a print designer. —Kenya Hunt
Bensoni
Chanel Iman dropped by the much-buzzed-about debut presentation inspired by the erotic novel, The Story of O. Benjamin Channing Clyburn and Sonia Yoon showed elegant, classic ladylike silhouettes (tweed jackets, trench coats and pencil skirts) in cheeky, modern prints (colourful lips and pink leopard), with a good dose of edgy hardware. —Tina Chadha
Philosophy
Alberta Ferretti dropped the pretty frocks (which sometimes felt repetitive) and went edgier with tailored wool, leather, or fur coats layered over colourful ribbed tops or sheer, diaphanous dresses worn over sheer leggings or trousers. It sounds complicated on paper but looked surprisingly fresh and cool. —Kenya Hunt
3.1 Phillip Lim
Before a packed audience, the singer and sometimes Beatrice Inn DJ Lissy Trullie provided a live soundtrack to Lim’s wide range of looks inspired by 1960s and ’70s London. He provided a little something for everyone (an easy, breezy black and white print dress for day and a shaggy fur and embellished minidress for night.) Overall, though, his outerwear was the real standout, such as a crisp Sgt. Pepper’s-like coat and gold metallic, fur-lined leather jacket. —Kenya Hunt
Vivienne Tam
The darling and sophisticated tight-fitting or cinched waist silhouettes could be worn by a sexy secretary on Mad Men, if she were channelling China. Pailettes showcasing written characters on silky tops tucked into vibrant red and purple charmeuse skirts for a feminine, sultry mood. —Maisie Wilhem
Alexandre Herchcovitch
For bewildered but brilliant women trapped in the ’20s, the pretty Mrs. Dalloways who forgetfully wear eyemasks like headbands in dishevelled hair and toss on deceivingly simple, waistless frocks of floaty chiffon in textured, deconstructed patterns and bundle up in black ruffled pea coats. —Maisie Wilhelm
Richard Chai
Don’t expect the easily wearable looks he created for Target; this separates-heavy collection was pure attitude. Professional women looking for that edge — found here literally, in upturned, severe shoulders — will want the leather jackets like modern armour for today’s cutthroat climate. —Maisie Wilhelm
Michael Kors
Luxe, investment-worthy pieces dominated Kors’ collection which seemed geared to his longtime audience of jet-setters. While his colour palette was subdued (black, grey and tan with occasional shots of neon brights), his fabrics were all glamour (tweed, cashmere, fur, fur and more fur). —Kenya Hunt
Anna Sui
The best thing about this collection, and Sui’s work in general, is that her bohemian romantic dresses have a timeless quality to them. They’d be the kind of purchase that you can wear years from now without getting those “Is that fall ’09?” questions. A pretty, printed dress in midnight blue velvet, for example, felt fresh and modern without being overly trendy. —Kenya Hunt
MCM
The brand MCM is back on the luxury handbag block. For those of you who remember the ’80s, MCM was a popular luxury accessories brand that later became a huge deal in the hip hop world thanks to rappers like Eric B. and MC Lyte to name a few. Now the label, which is an acronym for Mode Creation Munich, is planning a major comeback. Judging by its retro styles, I’m guessing it will be a hit in the music world. —Kenya Hunt
