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The ghost of Yves Saint Laurent hangs over runway season

If the fashion weeks in New York, London and Milan made anything clear,it’s that fashion is having a serious 1970s obsession. Technically,that obsession began in France.

If the fashion weeks in New York, London and Milan made anything clear, it’s that fashion is having a serious 1970s obsession. Technically, that obsession began in France.


Why? Because the runway season has been filled with references to Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent. Whether it be his billowing dresses, peasant blouses or bold colour palette, his influence stretches far and wide this season.


Whether or not the Paris shows continue this ’70s trend remains to be seen. But we can assure you that Saint Laurent’s ghost will still be in the air thanks to the new documentary about the couturier, L’Amour Fou.


It features never before seen footage of the designer and explores his relationship with his on-again-off-again lover and business partner, Pierre Berge. The film will surely only deepen fashion’s nostalgia for the icon and his work.

Limi Feu
The closing series of evening dresses were the highlight of this show, which was dominated by stark black and white dresses and separates.


What made these dresses stand out was the absence of all of the froufrou one expects from evening wear.


The dresses, such as a simple pleated black gown with a plunging V-neckline, were simple and yet displayed Feu’s flair for draping, volume and complex construction.


These are all skills that she shares with her father, Yohji Yamamoto.

Dries van Noten
Last season’s parade of army green, violet and leopard prints was replaced by a strong, precisely constructed collection of separates in relaxed, oversized proportions and soft pastels and floral prints.


Always a favourite among fashion’s top editors, this collection had plenty to choose from for those women who want to look modern but don’t want to be a slave to trends. The collection was an intelligent interpretation of spring dressing.

 
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