To call the Lower East Side’sMetrographan indie theater would undermine not just its mission of screening rare, restored and “lost” films and documentaries, but also its Old Hollywoodaesthetic. Movies feel important here, and now so can your pre-theater drinks and post-film analysisat its newdining room, the Commissary — think Hollywood studio lots of the 1920s-’40s, where marquee stars atenext to the crew along vintage banquettes, flanked by palms.
The short menu (less than 20 items)is classic American menu withArgentinian influences: a Waldorf salad made with crème fraîche andchimichurri sauce on the steak frites. Classic cocktails and a briefFrench-American wine selection by the glass are available at bars in the lobby and inside the restaurant.
The Commissary is open now for dinner starting at 6 p.m., and will expand to breakfast and lunch soon.