Maenam
1938 West 4 Ave.
Vancouver
604-730-5579
maenam.ca
Open Tuesday to Saturday
Lunch; noon to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner/Late night; 5 p.m. to 2 a.m.
Signature Drink: Personalized, baby
Signature Dish: David Thompson’s 3 Flavour Fish
Rating: ****1/2
Dinner & drinks for two: $90
Up until a month ago, Gastropod was one of the best seats in the city for inventive, upscale, West Coast fare. Then the economy happened, and owner/chef Angus An decided to reinvent the wheel slightly, turning Gastropod into a more casual, lively, wallet-friendly space that specialized in classic Thai cuisine—and Maenam was born. Minimal changes to décor, and still the same fabulous cocktail and wine lists, mean that you can have your chile cake and Siam Sun Rays, too.
Muslim oxtail soup ($14) hit all the right notes. The clear, aromatic broth contained just the right amount of heat to expand the airways without burning a hole through the tongue, and the meat was tender enough to cut with a spoon. Classics like pad thai ($14) and chicken and pork satays ($7)—you can also get beef—were tasty, but the amazing housemade sausage—fried, fermented and served with garlic, chiles and stalks of young lettuce—was drool-inducing. David Thompson’s 3 Flavour fish ($17) was amazing, light and smoky. Who David Thompson may be is a moot point, apart from the small prayer of thanks you can send his way.
Smoked local duck in red curry ($18) was the gum-smacking favourite round the table. Sweet and sour meshed beautifully in the light glaze. Some crispy golden mantle oysters ($8) were impressive, especially when matched with the fresh cucumber sauce, akin to a vinaigrette. We couldn’t decide between the chocolate pot de crème ($6) and the banana budino ($7), so had both and couldn’t finish either. Excellent nosh, but next time, I will come with a little more space in the digestive tract.
Celebrate Red and White with Tinhorn Creek
On July 1, Tinhorn Creek Vineyards will celebrate the release of their 2007 Pinot Noir and 2008 Chardonnay. The latter is a nice fresh take on the classic Chardonnay, with aromas of flowers, herbs, stone fruit and citrus over a palate of vanilla, mineral and nuts. $17.99 at BCLS, VQA and private wine stores.
Top Shelf
Canada Day at Tinhorn Creek
To celebrate Canada Day and the release of their 2007 Pinot Noir and 2008 Chardonnay, Tinhorn Creek is hosting an afternoon of games, guided hikes along the Golden Mile trail, and salmon BBQ complete with red and white wine. Tickets $35, children 12 and under free. Call 1-888-484-6467 or visit www.tinhorn.com.
Dining Out
Gastown Winemaker’s Dinner
So.Cial at Le Magasin (332 Water St) will host a five-course tasting dinner with Pacific Breeze Winery on June 16 at 6:30 p.m. $95 includes Alaskan scallops, caribou glazed with blueberry honey, boneless quail and more. Call 604-669-4488.
Lobster Al Fresco
Hart House Restaurant (6664 Deer Lake Ave, Bby) is holding their annual Lobster Supper on June 17 at 6 p.m. Begin with a casual tasting of wines in the gardens, then enjoy the Maritime lobster dinner with live music and a great view. $52 per person. Call 604-298-4278.
Food in Brief
Miku Restaurant is now not only the first (and only) restaurant in Vancouver to offer Aburi sushi, they are also the first Japanese restaurant in downtown Vancouver to join the Ocean Wise program. Congrats!
Metro Restaurant (200 Burrard St) has suddenly closed as of this past Tuesday. With the very slow business since the departure of chef Brian Fowke, this was hardly a surprise, but we wish the staff well in their future endeavours.
