Mon Bella Bistoria
1809 West 1 Ave.
Vancouver
604-569-2741
monbella.com
Open for Dinner: Tuesday to Sunday; 4 p.m. to late
Open for Brunch: Saturday & Sunday; 10:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.
Signature Drink: Vespa
Signature Dish: Tagliatelle alla Bolognese
Rating: ****
Dinner & drinks for two: $70
I
first visited Mon Bella about six months ago, shortly after they
opened. The concept was trumpeted as the world’s first bistoria
(bistro-meets-trattoria). The menu, however, was an illogical mess of
Italian, French and West Coast dishes, most of which showed a
noticeable lack of flavour and originality.
Mon Bella went
through some growing pains in its first few months, most noticeably in
the rapid succession of chefs — one of whom barely lasted two weeks.
There’s an old adage about steel being stronger for some time in the
fire however, and that seems to be the case in this instance. Owner
Brad Roark and the current chef — the very talented Brian Fowke,
formerly of Metro and Rare — have completely overhauled the menu. The
result is a collection of very appealing, wallet-friendly dining
options.
There’s a small menu of signature a la carte dishes,
but the gold is in the weekly features, which go for the ridiculously
low price of $20 for any three selections—there are usually about fix
or six options. On Tuesdays, you can enjoy three dishes with a wine
flight trio thrown in gratis for the same price. They also have a wine
and appy combo for $8 that’s available daily between 4:00 p.m. and 7:00
p.m.
During my first run at the new menu, I got some lovely
cured slices of wild salmon with a glass of French Gris ($8 combo)
while waiting for my friend and was very impressed with the
horseradish-scented flavour and texture of the dish. Our $20 prix fixe
included seared salmon over parsley crème fraîche, which was a lovely,
thick slice of fish with lightly tossed greens. Fork-tender beef short
rib, with mashed potatoes and local baby carrots, was slightly sweet
and fell off the bone. The chunks practically evaporated on the tongue.
An absolutely heart-stopping chocolate mousse in butter pastry with
strawberries and crème anglais finished the deal.
On my second
visit a few days later, I decided to go for the prix fixe again, since
the menu had changed. This time there was no dessert option included,
so we started with a tasty local buffalo mozzarella from Vancouver
Island, served over wild arugula, roasted grape tomatoes and crostini.
Next came perfect al dente spaghetti, tossed in olive oil, toasted
garlic and parsley. My friend went for the fricassee for his final
course, a hearty dish of tender chicken chunks, wild and oyster
mushrooms and crispy hand-cut späetzle. My Berkshire pulled pork was
very tender, albeit slightly plain, and the parsley gnocchi were
pan-fried and delicious. We splurged and shared dessert ($9) — the
chocolate mousse again.
It’s an amazing deal for what you’re
getting. Although the $20 deal is called a “tasting” menu, we were full
after three courses — dessert in round two was just plain greed. The
menu is still a mix of Italian and French, with local influences and
ingredients, but the flavours seem to meld harmoniously now from dish
to dish, regardless of which region you favour. There may still be some
growing to do, but it seems that, for Mon Bella, umami—that Nirvana
sixth-sense of taste—isn’t that far behind.
Falanghina Flourishes in Campania
Campania,
the southwestern region of Italy famous for being rocked by Vesuvius,
as well as being the origin of Nero’s drink of choice, is not
traditionally on the oenophile’s map. But it should be, if only thanks
to Falanghina, a native white grape that produces fairly well-bodied
wines of low acidity. I recently tried Feudi di San Gregorio’s
2006 version, a straw-yellow wine with lemony-apple and lime notes,
beautifully balanced with an extra clean finish. BCLS $27.99.
Top Shelf
It’s Here!
The 31st Annual Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival
starts in a scant few days, on Mar. 23. B.C. is this year’s theme
region, so don’t miss out on celebrating our local growers. A few
events still have tickets available, visit www.playhousewinefest.com for details.
Dining Out
A Trio of Wine Dinners
CRU
(1459 West Broadway) is holding a trio of winery dinners during
festival week. Mar. 23, taste Pinot Noirs from around the world ($90).
Mar. 25 features local winery, Stag’s Hollow ($90) and Mar. 29
highlights Le Vieux Pin and La Stella wineries ($100). Each evening
includes a four-course meal with wine pairings. Call 604-677-4111.
A Spontaneous Evening
Tonight at 6:30 p.m., La Terrazza
(1088 Cambie St) is presenting a last-minute wine dinner with Louis
Moreau, one of the world’s premier Chablis producers and sixth
generation winemaker. $125 includes reception, five-course dinner with
wine pairings, and a chance to meet Mr. Moreau. Call 604-899-4449.
Food in Brief
Juno Awards offer Local Swag
In honour of the awards taking place in Vancouver this year, VIP gift bags will contain C Restaurant’s signature smoked sea salt, as well as artisanal preserves from Vista d’Oro Farms & Winery.
The Association Formerly Known As…
South
Okanagan Wineries Association is offering a VIP prize package to
whoever comes up with the best new name for its group of wineries.
Visit www.ccltd.ca/namethatwineregion for details.
