The Poor Italian
3296 East 1 Ave.
Vancouver
604-251-1122
pooritalian.com
Signature Drink: Prosecco
Signature Dish: Lamb rack
Rating: ***
Dinner & drinks for two: $100
Chef Gianni Picchi has always been a bit of an anomaly on the dining front. This former EC of Il Giardino, and former owner of Gianni’s in West Vancouver, was never one for refined aesthetics. His food was always more robust, a tad more rustic than his counterparts, and definitely without frills. It’s the food your grandmother might have made for you, if she was Italian and had the budget. It isn’t the type of food that is especially fashionable in upscale Italian restaurants these days, but it is rather comforting.
So, when I heard that Picchi had come out of retirement to open a restaurant with Tony Parsons (yes, that Tony Parsons), I already had an inkling of what to expect. Over the course of a couple of visits, my intuition proved—this time—to be fairly accurate.
The room is comfortable and cozy, with enough space between the tables to afford some privacy, and enough buzz to keep the energy up. The wine list could do with a few more selections by-the-glass, but the ones available were at least well chosen for their price point.
As for the menu, while not cheap, the prices are, for the most part, reasonable ($7 to $16 for starters; $14 to $30 for pastas and mains), although there were some exceptions, and several items were much higher than what was listed on the website. The portions are mainly gargantuan, which is probably a wise move given the location.
On our first visit we started with some truffled, sautéed mushrooms, which at $12 were more than a little overpriced for the small portion we received. They were tasty, aromatic, and rich, but I kept wondering if button mushrooms had gone up in price overnight. A large plate of oyster soup ($8.50) was more welcome, well-studded with the star ingredient, and a hit with the table, despite the cream being on the thin side.
We decided to share a plate of the seafood risotto ($22.50) after that. This could easily work as a starter for three or more people, had a healthy amount of quality seafood—large prawns, mussels, clams, scallops—and was perfectly cooked. From the mains, veal saltimbocca ($28) was delicious, if slightly over-salted (the prosciutto provided as much salt as was necessary all by itself). The lamb rack ($30) was the favourite of the evening, and was fork-tender, although the jus it came in could have used a little more reduction time. Both mains came with the same grouping of vegetables, a motley assortment of steamed spinach, asparagus, roasted golden beets, roasted potatoes, and pickled red cabbage.
We managed to squeeze in some dessert. A mascarpone-stuffed pear ($7) was disappointing, but a lemon millefoglie (like the French mille feuille) for the same price was stand-out, with thick cream perfectly balanced between crisp wafers.
The Poor Italian offers reasonable food at fairly reasonable prices, and will no doubt be a draw to East Side residents who don’t relish a trek downtown for some decent chow.
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with a twist
As a label, Cat’s Pee on a Gooseberry Bush might not be the epitome of class, but the gooseberry reference is pretty accurate. And, despite the name, this is a damned tasty wine, courtesy of Cooper’s Creek Winery just outside of Auckland. Fresh, clean, mineral and citrus flavours, pairs well with chilled seafood. BCLS $15.99.
Top Shelf
The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival is launching on April 19, and some tickets are still available. Visit playhousewinefest.com for details.
Food in Brief
West has announced that Chef Warren Geraghty will be departing the restaurant for destinations unknown sometime in the near future. No word yet on his replacement.
Chef Quang Dang of C Restaurant will be leaving in a few weeks to take over the reins at Diva at the Met, following Chef Dino Renaerts new partnership with Fraîche and the former Crave Beachside in West Vancouver.
