Cross-breeding pastries with other bread products and rainbows is basically the baker’s version of genetically engineeringrabbits toglow in the dark, except more delicious (usually) andless ethically dubious.Not that most bakerswould be bothered by a little moral quandary if it meant getting their own Cronut line (still going strong after more than three years, tyvm)every. single. morning.
The newest product of the flavor mavericks atThe Doughnut Project is the Everything Doughnut. The West Village shop has been an upstart since it opened late last year, and in fact its first claim to fame was also a savory-sweet combo of a pillow-shapeddoughnutwith a piece of bacon laid out on top like a sunseeker in Tahiti.
For the Everything, aplain yeast doughnut is fried, then toppedwith a “cream cheese glaze”and a dusting of sesame and poppyseeds, pepitas, seasalt and garlic(!). Though they’ve been known to sidle right up to the savory-sweet boundary, this is a new frontier.
And the results have been mixed. Buzzfeed got a batch with super-sweet frosting that left it tasting more like a doughnut than a bagel. Timeout had texture issues — the pull of the chewy authentic New York bagel is strong. But the Daily News called it a “perfect sweet homage” to NYC’s unofficial (but really, official)food.
If you like bacon with your pancakes or salted caramel, you know the magic of savory-sweet. Whether or not you believe the words “cream cheese” and “glaze” belong in the same sentence is between you and the $3.75 it’ll cost to find out.
The Doughnut Project
10 Morton St., West Village
M-F 8a.m. & S-S 9a.m. until the doughnuts are gone